Success is no accident. It is hard work, perseverance, learning, studying, sacrifice and most of all, love of what you are doing or learning to do. – Pele, sort of ok “football” player.
He, at least I think it was a he, hard to tell with a wet-suit. But that’s not the point.
In this shot, it looked like he was trying to become one with the ocean. He leaned over, studied the water, and then stepped off into the waves.
As much as I’d like to make this a story of overcoming adversity, but it’s not. Time after time he stepped off and lost the board in the first wave. Good thing he was wearing a wet-suit.
The remarkable thing to watch was how he never gave up. Time after time he’d step off, not make it, and do it over. I found myself really respecting his refusal to give up when I knew many people I know would call him a failure.
The problem with being perfect is that that guy is already taken. There’s only one perfect person, and I’m ok with that. For the rest of us, we can only accept it.
So whoever you were out there along the Lincoln City beach, a digital high five from all of the rest of us who understand not giving up and applaud your efforts.